QUATTRO PAZZI (Four Crazies in Italian) has had such success with its tiny Stamford restaurant that a second Quattro Pazzi has opened in Fairfield.

The new Quattro Pazzi is installed in premises formerly occupied by Gregory's. The limited space is sparkling, with harlequin-shaped symbols and jester pictures on cream-colored walls. The narrow dining room is separated by wood columns from a petite bar area. This even cozier area, with a handful of tables, is distinguished by a long bar with mirrored paneling and colorful murals of jesters at play.

Although this Quattro Pazzi is as small as its Stamford parent, the decor has more style and the menu a bit more sophistication. Less of a homey neighborhood drop-by place, the new spot dubs itself a ''cafe and bar,'' not a restaurant.

A word should be said about the portions; they are enormous. Even the mixed salad served with nonpasta entrees comes heaped on a large dinner plate. The crusty bread, with a saucer of excellent extra-virgin olive oil, is so tasty it requires self-discipline not to overdo it.

Two appetizers, among eight on the menu, were the big hits of our first dinner. Polenta con funghi e Gorgonzola was ambrosial, an overused word that really fits this luscious dish. A large slab of soft polenta was awash in a creamy sauce of melted Gorgonzola cheese and sliced, firm shiitake mushrooms, anointed with a dab of tomato sauce and a flurry of fresh parsley flakes.

Melanzane con pepperoni alla Scamorza or grilled eggplant, layered with roasted red peppers, was topped with a generous slice of smoky mozzarella and sat regally, piping hot, in a pool of balsamic vinaigrette. Splendid! No other starter matched the above mentioned, but vongole Mediterraneo -- tender little Manila cockle clams sauteed in a zesty broth with garlic and fresh tomato was light and appealing. Antipasto misto freddo was sufficient for three to share: A platter of prosciutto, soppressata, roasted red peppers and delicate fresh mozzarella, ornamented with fresh basil and a spray of extra-virgin olive oil.

Sixteen pastas dominate the menu, which is no surprise in as much as the cafe's subtitle is ''The place for pasta.'' Especially appealing was the paglia e fieno forestiere, an intimidatingly large bowlful of green and white pasta tossed with a few strips of grilled chicken breast, grilled portobello mushroom slices and a light marinara sauce. What made the dish special, with added texture, were the chunks of pencil-thin fresh asparagus cooked al dente.

Pastaphiles might enjoy either of two scaloppines. Scaloppine all'arrabbiata consisted of three thin escalopes of chewy veal, slightly overwhelmed by mildly spicy Italian sausage, garlic buds, roasted red peppers, onions and mushrooms in a light brown wine sauce. Scaloppine Sorrentina combined a similar veal flavor with eggplant, prosciutto, a blanket of melted mozzarella in a flavorful marinara sauce.

Of desserts offered we found the three-berry tart (whole raspberries, boysenberries and blueberries, as well as red currants) superior to the more commercial-tasting chocolate mousse cake.

Quattro Pazzi Cafe and Bar
1599 Post Road, Fairfield.
(203) 259-7417
Good

Atmosphere : Lively and convivial in a sprightly new, cozy bandbox of a storefront place.

Service : Friendly, quick and engaging.

Recommended Dishes: Polenta con funghi e Gorgonzola, Melanzane con pepperoni alla Scamorza, Vongole Mediterraneo, Antipasto misto freddo, Paglia e fieno forestiere, Scaloppine all'arrabbiata, Scaloppine Sorrentina, rigatoni formaggi, three-berry tart.

Price Range Lunch $10-$15, dinner $17--$28.

Credit Cards Major cards.

Hours 11:30 A.M.-3 P.M. Tuesday-Friday, 5:30-10 P.M. Tuesday-Thursday, 5-11 P.M. Friday and Saturday.

Reservations Not accepted.

Wheelchair Accessibility Dining room at ground level; restrooms at same level.